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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.